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MAREANI'S MYSTERIOUS ILLNESS First things first, though. I have some bad news about my best friend in the village, Mareani--she no longer lives in the village. I'll start from the beginning, though. Back in January, Mareani, her husband Apimeleki, and some other friends from the village took a pole boat out to the reef edge to do some fishing and sea-cucumber hunting. While the men were in the water, Mareani and another woman stayed in the boat. Mareani started to feel ill. She had all the symptoms of stomach flu or sea-sickness. But by the time the men came back to the boat, Mareani could hardly move her legs. The group rushed back to shore, and Mareani tried to prove that she would be alright by forcing herself to walk back to her house from the boat. When she got there, she collapsed, and she hasn't walked since. Over the next few days, people in the village tried "Fijian medicine" on her. It seemed to everyone present that this was a "Fijian sickness," and not one for the hospital. It turns out that an old Fijian folk-tale says that a spirit of an old man, called Qase Ni Uluna lives on my village land. Apparently, this is the man everyone was always referring to when they told me never to walk too far to the East on the beach because it wasn't safe. This spirit also has a dog. As male spirits, the pair only haunts female villagers. Their main purpose is to keep women in line. If a woman is wearing inappropriate clothes, for example (as Mareani sometimes wears above-knee shorts to the sea), then she might get a visit from Qase Ni Uluna. Furthermore, even if that woman is with other people, she is the only one who will see the spirit. But once sickness is inflicted, she will have no memory of the event... According to the villagers, there are certain cures for the sicknesses brought on by the wrath of Qase Ni Uluna. The day after Mareani fell ill, I was in town doing some shopping. While I was away, Apimeleki's family boiled some large stones in a pot of hot water. They then poured out the water, placed the scalding hot stones in a large metal basin, and lifted my paralyzed and desensitized best friend up out of bed and had her sit on top of the burning hot kitchen pot. Because Mareani did not have any feeling from her waist down at this point, she could not move off the stones, nor could she scream from discomfort. As a result, she sustained 2nd and 3rd degree burns all over her legs and behind. Oh, and she wasn't cured. After 4 more days of being stuck in bed (wetting herself and all), Mareani finally told me she and her husband would go to the hospital in Savusavu. I called a trusted friend to come and drive them. Instead of going to the hospital, however, Mareani's father ordered the pair to drive straight through town and go to her birth village (he was paying the $80 fare for the carrier, so they had little choice but to obey). 4 more days later, and Mareani was finally taken to the Savusavu hospital. The staff there immediately called an ambulance and had her rushed to Labasa Hospital, Vanua Levu Island's largest and most well-equipt facility. Mareani stayed there, in a shared room with a broken fan, no air conditioning, TV, or even a radio, unable to move or get out of bed, for the next 6 weeks. Her sister came to help take care of her, and she slept on a mat spread on the linoleum floor next to Mareani's hospital bed for the whole duration of her stay. I went to visit once, and I was absolutely moved to tears by Mareani's situation. I brought her magazines, Gatorade mix, and a good-luck charm because I couldn't think of anything else to do... Last week, after her burns had healed and Mareani had tested "normal" on a Cat Scan and MRI, she was released in a wheelchair back to her parents. After almost two months, Mareani has partial feeling in one leg, and she can finally hobble to the bathroom as long as she has a little help getting the wheelchair into place. We have spoken several times on the phone. Apparently, Mareani's family is convinced that the illness was brought on because she, a Catholic, was married to a Methodist man by a Methodist priest. The marriage, therefore, is not valid. If Apimeleki wants Mareani back, he must travel to her parents and arrange for a Catholic marriage ceremony. At the present time, it does not look like that is going to happen. I don't think Mareani will ever be coming back to my village :-(. Please include her in your thoughts and prayers. I will keep you all updated on Mareani's condition as my time here in Fiji comes to an end. Now, let's share some more happy news... * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
WORK EXCHANGE / VITI LEVU ADVENTURE WITH TAIT Right around the time that Mareani was checked into the hospital, I was heading down to Viti Levu Island for a work exchange and travel adventure with a bunch of Peace Corps Volunteers who live in places where I had yet to visit in Fiji. First stop... Suva... Fiji's Capital City. 
And what would a trip to Suva be without a "Happy Hour" get together at Bad Dogs Cafe? Ever since "Vonu" brand beer was released here in Fiji, we have made a habit of splitting discounted "Vonu Towers," approximately 10 beers each with a tube filled with ice in the middle and a tap at the bottom. Here's a full one with some happy PCVs...
Weekend Camping Trip on the Coral Coast
On our way over to Nadi for the really important part of our work exchange, Tait and I decided to go camping at Uprising Resort in Coral Coast, Fiji. We called ahead and found out that camping would be less expensive than staying in the dorm, but we were happily surprised when we arrived to learn that we could set our tent up right on the beach, directly in front of the super-expensive holiday bure. For only $25 USD per night, Tait and I had our own private beach, free wireless Internet and breakfast in the main area, a nice pool and a bar with good specials at night! Although we might have slummed up the view for some of the Resort's other guests, we didn't let it stop us from having a great Valentine's Day weekend.
Part of a volunteer, of course, is also not being able to afford to buy meals while on vacation. So, Tait and I would buy cans of tuna, bread, and Peanut Butter and Jelly, and we would have lovely little picnics on our private beach.
Nadi Town Council Presentation: The Cane Train
After the Coral Coast, Tait and I headed across to the Western side of Viti Levu to help some volunteers with a presentation for important government officials. We created a slide presentation, wore our traditional clothes, and showed off some of our Fijian Language skills at the meeting. In return, the Nadi Town Council put us up at a 3-star hotel (with air conditioning, hot water, bath tubs, a pool, balcony, and a TV with like 5 channels!!) for a couple of nights. Our families then did something surprising and amazing by putting us up there for a couple more... Tait and I ended up spending 5-nights in "baller" style!
Just because we got a free room, however, doesn't mean we couldn't find ways to slum it up again. In addition to doing bathtub laundry and hanging it all over the balcony to dry, Tait and I accidentally broke two of the hotel's irons by making too many grilled cheese sandwiches with them... oops! (Good thing we speak Fijian and so we didn't get in trouble!)
Rakiraki, Ra
After our luxurious Nadi adventure, Tait and I geared up to head back to his village about two hours by bus outside of Rakiraki town.
Here I am preparing an Okra curry for us one night in Tait's little tin bachelor pad.
Just like my house, Tait's gets hot enough to practice some Bikram Yoga using the 1.5 hour audio file that I bought last year on Amazon.com.
Tait and a village kid at his bus stand.
Nausori and Suva again
On our way back to Suva (from where I would catch a bus and a boat to head back to the North), Tait and I stopped off for some good home cooking with our friend Courtney outside of Nausori, and then we met up with some other friends in Suva for a birthday club-hopping night in Suva..
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SPCA COME TO MY VILLAGE
("S.P.C.A." stands for "Society for Prevention of Cruelty Against Animals")
Ever since I set foot in Fiji almost two years ago, I have been moved by the plight of animals (especially dogs) in this country. Especially in the villages, where no animal care is practiced (i.e. no feeding, petting, or bathing of the pets), canine overpopulation is a major issue. Dogs breed constantly. The males are aggressive and dangerous (not to mention loud) whenever a female is in heat, and starving female mom dogs and litters of starving puppies going through garbage piles and laying down to die are unfortunately very common sights to see.
In short, I for the past year-and-a-half, I have been trying to get SPCA (based in Suva, Viti Levu Island) to come to my village and operate on the animals. Finally, In February 2011, SPCA was making a trip to the North to visit the horses of a local resort. They had some free time, and three doctors were visiting from Australia and Ireland. I convinced my village to donate $100 towards the sedative medicines, and the SPCA veterinary team came to the village!!!
Early one Saturday morning, the village dog owners showed up with their animals, waiting to be de-sexed.
In preparation for the doctor's visit, the village built a small shelter (wood posts with sheets of tin resting on top as a roof) right beside the church's outdoor water tap. The team then converted this into a three-table sterile (well, as much as possible), surgical center.
Almost the entire village population (there's the chief in the middle sitting on a chair) came out to watch the veterinarians do their work.
Some of the patients waiting in line for their turn under the knife.
Here I am with little Sela and Tema, hanging out and watching the action unfold.
After the dogs were given a shot of anesthesia, the doctors would carry them over to the operating tables.
Here they are, doing three surgeries at once...
And here are the post-surgery dogs, all lined up and looking like they love each other, waiting to wake up from the anesthesia.
After the surgeries were finished (16 male dogs neutered, 14 females spayed, and 2 male cats and 1 female), the team and I had a feast at the Chief's house.
At the end, the doctors checked my cat (who already had her surgery a few months ago), and told me that she looked great and everything was fine with her.
The SPCA village day was a great success!!
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SYSK PODCAST AND TOMITOMI PRIZES WITH THE SCHOOL CHILDREN
"Stuff You Should Know" is a podcast that I often download onto the computer from town. The early episodes are only about 5-10 minutes in length. Once I put them on the computer, they can be played to a large group on my ipod and speakers.
A few weeks ago, I showed up at the local primary school to conduct my weekly Kickball Practice during the Class 7&8 Sports Hour. When I showed up at the school, however, I found the children running wild and all the teachers engaged in an important meeting. Not feeling confident in my ability to get the classroom cleaned up, the children changed into their sports clothes, and the game going smoothly (with no fights or chaos), I decided to try something new.
I had brougmy ipod and speakers with me, as well as a package of new pencils that someone had sent me from home. I wrote up some fill-in-the-blank questions on the blackboard, had the kids copy them down, and then conducted a listening-comprehension exercise for the class. The first podcast we listened to was about "Hysterical Strength," i.e. the phenomenon when people can sometimes lift cars off of their children, etc, in a fit of adreneline-induced panic, and the second one was about how to "Survive a Shark Attack." For each right answer, a child got a pencil as a prize.
The activity was lots of fun. Here are some pictures of it:
The first-round winners posing with their papers in front of the board.
The class huddled around my ipod speakers to get a good listen to the Shark Attack podcast.
One kid used a Louvre window as a surface for recording his answers.
Here I am with the elated class after prizes were awarded and we were about to leave school for the day.
After my work at the school, I walked the children home and, as always, we did our village cleanup project (aka "Tomitomi")
Here the kids are separating the rubbish we collect into a bag marked "kama" (burn) and another marked "bulu"(bury).
The little ones were being too cute that day! Akoila decided to carry his bag on his head.
At the end of the cleanup, the kids and I bring all the bulu rubbish to one of the bury pits around the village, and then we burn the rest outside my yard.
Finally, once a month, the kids can spend their "tomitomi coins," the circular pieces of cardboard covered in tin foil that I hand out for good participation every week, on prizes that friends and family send from America. Here's one of the kids in his newly purchased American-flag bandana. Very cool!
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WAI NI MATE NI VITI
Curing my Stomach Flu with Fijian Medicine
I know I'm not supposed to take "Fijian Medicine," but I knew that this remidy would be safe because we sometimes eat the leaves shown below in another form for dinner. Here, my friend Mesi is crushing up some mature Cassava leaves with water. She strained the green "juice" into a cup and then I drank it in one go. Apparently, if the medicine worked, I would have thrown up. If it didn't work, I would have had a running stomach.... Needless to say that my symptoms didn't change, and when I was better a few days later, the rest of the village community attributed my recovery to this interesting Fijian ritual...
Here's my friend Mesi, crushing and squeezing the mature Cassava leaves for my medicinal drink.
This is the neon green mixture she strained into a glass for me.
And... here I am drinking the concoction.
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MY HOUSE IS A GARDEN PARADISE!
After 19 months in the village, my little house and compound finally look inhabited! All the flowers in the hedge ar blooming, and the bougainville I planted along the tin wall of my bathroom has fianlly crept all the way up onto the tin roof where I hope it will one day (for the next volunteer, I guess) help prevent the house from turning into an over during the heat of the day.
And I recently updated my wall of cards and letters. Thank you so much to all who sent holiday cards, etc. I love looking at all my beautiful friends and family every day!
The garden in the back is finally ready to start again. After all this rain and heat, I was able to get some little seedlings (cabbage, cucumber, tomatoes, long beans, lettuce, and watermelon) going...
Here's a "torch flower" that I planted in the compound over a year ago. The unique-looking bloom was well worth the wait.
And here is some of the bougainville, climbing onto the roof of my house via my septic tank vent pipe...
And some other beautiful flowers that are now tall enough that I can see them from my kitchen window while I cook and eat.
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VCO PRODUCTION: OUR FIRST ATTEMPT
Together with the ladies of the village, I would like to help them learn to make Virgin Coconut Oil as a small side-business. In February 2010, the village and I brainstormed and did some market analyses to decide on a small income generation project that would be feasible for the community. What we decided on was Virgin Coconut Oil. Last year was a bit busy, however, with our water filter construction and the budget project, so the VCO was put on hold until recently.
Here I am with Sotia, Ilimo's mother, attempting to make our first batch. 5-days after these photos were taken, I brought her to a Peace Corps workshop on the ins-and-outs of starting an agricultural business in the Fijian Village. We wanted to attend the event with a little bit of practice under our belts...
During the oil making process, I attempted to comfort my namesake (little Etuate Goldman Bari, otherwise known as "Mr. Goldman"). Unfortunately, my lack of experience handling babies means that he usually does not stop crying when I come and pick him up....
But look how fat he's getting! So cute!
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PC AGRIBUSINESS WITH SOTIA
Here Sotia and I are waiting for the bus to head out of the village and go to Viti Levu for the Peace Corps training.
It was her very first time riding an airplane. Before we left, Sotia told me that I had answered her lifelong prayers when I invited her to come with me to the training.
Here she is on the plane, super excited after taking off.
Day one of the workshop: Sotia and I make a "Property Report" presentation to the trainers, and the other 10 teams of PCV/Community Partners who attended the conference.
By Day 3, Sotia and I had figuredout all of our previous VCO-production mistakes, and we made this instructional poster for the women of our village to reference while they work.
We then gave our final business presentation, in Fijian, as practice for what we would say when we return to the village and speak in a meeting.
Finally, we received our certificates of participation, and the training came to a close.
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Ok all. Thanks for bearing with me on this long entry. I'm off to have a small vacation on the South Island for a bit before I head back North and get to training the women in VCO production with Sotia.
I miss you all, and I can't wait to be home and closer to everyone in only a few months time.
xoxo
Milika
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